Nepal: How I got from Kathmandu to Nagarkot

This is the first post related to the country visited during my recent Asian Adventure.

My initial aspiration was to write a daily journal transformed into a blog post. After first two weeks in Asia it has crystalized that I am going to be posting infrequent posts.

Getting out of the airport

Visa

After long journey on route from Prague over Vienna, Singapore and Bangkok I have finally landed in Kathmandu. First impression was that I am at one of the old fashioned airport terminals. First thing after arrival is to get your visa. It is possible to request it up front (NP Online Visa Application), present the visa identifier and pay the visa fee. Or you can request VisaOnArrival on the kiosks in the arrival hall. You can pay cash in multiple currencies (USD, EUR, NPR and others). Card payment is possible, but was refused with my Revolut’s Mastercard debit card (I will write technical details later to technology focused post).

SIM card

After getting visa to your passport, you have to proceed by unusual arrival security check. Bag and me “czeched out” to the first small hall with exchange offices and telecommunication operator stands. In case of Nepal I haven’t used Airalo, Saily or Maaltalk. Because I could get the Ncall eSIM (Thank You Google Pixel 4!) prepaid number (call, SMS and 4G) with half year validity and 20 GB for 14 days for 700 NPR (with passport photo provided, otherwise +50 NPR fee). 5.07 USD instead 9.9 USD on Saily (only data, 1 GB, 7 days validity) or 35 USD on Airalo (Patancell, only data, 5 GB, 30 days validity). Lesson Learned? Research if you can get better and cheaper SIM or eSIM physically after arrival.

Cash

It is practical to have some Nepali rupees (NPR) straight at the airport.

My approach is: Relatively low on cash in the local currency, some emergency USD. For Use Case I will not be able to pay for the service in the local currency. And so far it didn’t happen. Cash is the king in Asia!

There are several ATMs by the exit from Tribhuvan International airport International Arrivals hall. Fee is. between 250 – 300 NPR, so dispense an amount reasonable for yourself.

Getting to the Nepali mountains

Once I got my visa, eSIM and cash, I was ready for a coffee and making a plan how to get to Nagarkot.

Nepali car hailing apps

There was literally only one stand in the hall, and it was a Himalayan Java Coffee stand waiting for me! Sipping my coffee I have started setting app two local car hailing apps – inDrive and Pathao. You can use foreign mobile number with inDrive, but you need Nepali mobile number for Pathao. Difference? inDrive is convenient, have better location mapping, but is more expensive. Pathao is functional, cheap, was difficult to choose correct locations and there are overall less drivers available. Cities like Kathmandu, Bhaktapur or Pokhara are better covered. But for location like Nagarkot you have to be very lucky to get a ride down to the Kathmandu.

Getting a ride to Nagarkot

I’ve decided to use inDrive for a hassle free ride. When you provide source and destination location, you can quote the price for the ride. You have a recommended price, which is reflecting usual price for such ride and current driver availability. I’ve placed the default order for about 1200 NPR and I got instantly offer from Rahul to be able to pick me up in 3 minutes. Great, let’s meet by the arrival hall…

Once I stepped out from the arrival hall, I started to fell the heat. Better then in Singapore or Thailand, but still – it’s not a fresh environment yet. I got instantly noticed by the horde of old fashioned taxi drivers with meters willing to give me a ride. “No, thanks guys.” I am already riding with Puzan. I got a call. Very rough spoken English. “Where are you?”, he asks me. “In front of the arrival hall.”. “I cannot get there, you need to come to me.” “Where?”. Puzan did understand from the context, he will need to come to physically pick me up. So he did show up on foot. “I am standing just by the main road down there.” Now I know I wouldn’t find Puzan on my own. I am sitting into Tata’s Tigor.ev. Very nice modern car. I was quite impressed.

As we had a more then an hour ride to the Nagarkot from Kathmandu, we have been chatting all the way long. Where do I come from and why am I going to Nagarkot. Well, because I was looking on Booking.com couple months back for “something authentic close to the mountains with good view and fresh air”. So I found Nagarkot Trekkers Inn homestay. I asked him that on the profile picture it is not him, so it is not his primary job? “I am just helping my father a bit.” So I asked him what is his primary job. He replied, that he is planning to continue in masters studies. So he has a bachelor degree from the local university. That brought me the idea that he has to be quite lucky that he has a university degree. “Yes, I am very grateful that my parents can effort to pay for my studies.” Right, you have to pay for your studies. “You have to pay for all levels of education in Nepal?”. Yes, he replied. “So you don’t have public education at all?”. “We do, but you have to pay for public school as well.”. So in that moment I have fully realized how rich we are in Europe having free education in the form of the public educational systems.

Taking a walk to Nagarkot Trekkers Inn

Puzan has dropped me in the center of Nagarkot. I was not sure if I can get by car to the homestay. Maps were showing road there, but still – this is not a Europe. 🙂

So I bought some local soft drink in the closest shop for a slightly “touristy” price, and I’ve started my 30 minute walk to my final destination. Thanks to Organic Maps I was walking the most effective path -through miliary area, where I shouldn’t walk. I have been told later, so since that moment I haven’t walked that path again.

I was walking down the unpaved road. I was passing around very basic houses in different conditions. I saw several goats grazing around. I saw the sign of Nagarkot Trekkers Inn. One minute. I am almost there. It was already getting dark, so I haven’t seen much of the surroundings. I have arrived to the end of the road. There I saw two brick illustrated small houses. That has to be my new home for the upcoming days!

I’ve seen there has been open door to the house nearby, so I though this has to be house of my host. No, it was a neighbors house. I have greeted the lady inside the house and her son by namaste, and then I switched to English. But she continued speaking in Nepali. And then she pointed to the small houses. Yes, that’s where I do suppose to stay tonight. So I have called the owner’s number. “You are already there? How have you got there? We were expecting you coming around our shop.” OK, owners does have a shop as well, but I have successfully bypassed it by my “organic” shortcut through restricted area.

And suddenly a motorcycle is coming down the road I’ve been previously walking down. “Hi, and welcome to Nagarkot sir!” And that is how I met Kishor Malla. The good guy with big heart welcoming me to his Nagarkot Trekkers Inn kingdom.

We had a great Dal Bhat together with Kishor and his lovely wife Manju. I instantly felt in love with the place and its vibe.

And this was just the beginning!

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